Burham Canyon Pictographs

The pictograph site in Burham Canyon is well-known and easy to find – and it shows. Fresh dirt bike tracks run right up to it and empty Coors Light cans are wedged into the cracks in the rock outcropping.

A stormy early spring day in the Greenhorn Mountains, and we're headed towards this granite outcropping in Burham Canyon to visit a pictograph site. We had walked up the canyon that is visible to the left in the photo. There is a dirt road that runs up the canyon but last fall's cloudbursts have made the road unsafe to drive.

A stormy early spring day in the Greenhorn Mountains, and we’re headed towards this granite outcropping in Burham Canyon to visit a pictograph site. We walked up the canyon that is visible to the left in the photo. There is a dirt road that runs up the canyon but last fall’s cloudbursts have made the road unsafe to drive.

Honestly, nine out of ten beer cans I find strewn around in the backcountry are Coors Light empties! What’s up with that, you guys? If your big mean ol’ backcountry ass could haul it in and was badass enough to handle some light beer, that self-same ass surely can haul the empties back out!

That said: despite the high rate of traffic the site is not vandalized, and that at least is great to see.

This site was important to the Kawaiisu, and also the neighboring Kitanemuk.

The main panel is some distance off the ground, tucked in under an overhang. In the foreground is a small bedrock outcropping with mortars.

The main panel is some distance off the ground, tucked in under an overhang. In the foreground is a small bedrock outcropping with mortars.

According to a member of the Kawaiisu tribe, Andy Greene, the Burham Canyon site was used by women giving birth. In fact, when interviewed by researchers he stated that the whole canyon is a habitat for plants that were traditionally used by women. These two facts paint an evocative picture of the site as a place of meaning.

Andy Greene also shared another very important piece of information with researchers, one that we all should heed whenever we have the opportunity to visit cultural sites: this site and others like it are sacred to Native American people and should not be casually visited.

Of course, since Burham Canyon is in the middle of a whole network of OHV recreation trails there is no chance of keeping casual visitors away.

Here's another view of the site. This angle makes it obvious how well- sheltered the panel is. The overhang is deeper and steeper than it appears in the more common pictures of the site which tries to highlight the panel.

Here’s another view of the site. This angle makes it obvious how well-sheltered the panel is. The overhang is deeper and steeper than it appears in the more common pictures of the site which highlights the panel but is taken by standing below it and looking up to it, which makes the overhang seem shallow.

Burham Canyon used to be drivable for anybody with a high clearance vehicle — maybe some 4×4 for the gnarly bits — but the flash flooding in the fall of 2015 have changed that for the time being. The dirt road that meanders up to the site crosses the alluvial fan radiating out from the canyon and in some places this road was the path of least resistance for runoff dumping out of the hills during the rains. Thus, parts of the road are quite washed out and in others a donga* runs right along the dirt road, ready to ruin an off-roader’s day. I’d advise caution if you visit, at least until some of the runoff damage is repaired or mitigated.

Here is feature of the site that gets mentioned sometimes - the "bear". This outcropping by the main panel looks like a bear's head when viewed from a certain angle. To my knowledge the bear did not feature prominently in any Kawaiisu legends so I would guess that this outcropping is coincidental and not a reason this site was chosen.

Here is a feature of the site that gets mentioned sometimes – the “bear”. This outcropping by the main panel looks like a bear’s head when viewed from a certain angle. To my knowledge the bear did not feature prominently in any Kawaiisu legends so I would guess that this outcropping is coincidental and not a reason this site was chosen.

There was also one spot where a small erratic boulder had washed down and ended up in the middle of the road. On the way up I tried to straddle it with the vehicle and managed to whack our poor brand-new vehicle twice on the underbelly, once per axle. Ouch!

On the way down I decided to crawl over it on the driver’s side instead ( this all happened down in a narrow gully, so there was no going around this boulder ) and got the front wheel over, then stalled, one wheel on each side of the boulder. Great! The off road rookie makes a rookie mistake in the middle of nowhere.

Um, the good thing is there is no-one around to see it. We have the place to ourselves. And, ah … the bad thing is that there is no-one around, so if we can’t get over this boulder by ourselves …

Well, nothing to do but to go for it: deep breath, get the clutch foot ready, start the engine, and … crawwwllll … and stall! Oy. This stuff is fun until suddenly it isn’t!

Well, the way out is forward. Try again!

I was more careful the second time, applying a good amount of gas and some careful feathering of the clutch, and got the rear wheel over without much trouble. Just like that we were on our way. I believe this kind of thing is called a “learning experience”.

So, learn from me! Be careful if you go visiting. You’re going to need your 4wd – there is a lot of deep sand and gnarly bits. You’re going to need some  high clearance as well. And don’t chance it – if it looks sketchy just park and walk, or turn around.

Once we up to the canyon mouth we did get out to scout on foot. Almost immediately we decided to just park where we were and hoof it the remaining mile or so to the site.

The dirt road running up the canyon was mostly fine, but it crosses from side to side in the canyon and at a few of these crossings it was washed out – not the worst thing – or severely undermined by the flooding, with a potential drop of many feet into a narrow gully – a bad thing! We figured a nice two mile walk was much better than running the risk of landing rubber side up in the bottom of the canyon.

I cannot take any credit for this gorgeous photograph. It was taken by my companion. I'm a known claustrophobe so I do not clamber into tiny fissures in the rock just to see what might be there ( I do clamber when I know there is a reward! ). Fortunately I have a kind, clever companion who does these investigations for me. He had squeezed into a shelter to look for pictographs and took this photo before he handed the camera back to me. I think it is absolutely gorgeous.

I cannot take any credit for this gorgeous photograph – it was taken by my companion! I am kinda claustrophobic so I do not clamber into tiny fissures in the rock just to see what might be there ( I do clamber, up to a point, when I know there is a reward! ). Good thing then that I have a great companion who is willing to squeeze into rock formations for me. In this case he had wriggled into a shelter to look for pictographs and took this photo before he handed the camera back to me. I think it is an absolutely gorgeous shot.

This picture, taken from the top of the outcropping, shows the two low bedrocks with their mortars. One of these are partially buried in sand. There are probably several more mortars under the sand, but excavation of any sort is illegal at archeological sites, so we make no attempt to find out.

This picture, taken from the top of the outcropping, shows the two low bedrocks with their mortars that sits in front of the site. One of these is partially buried in sand. There are probably several more mortars under the sand, but excavation of any sort is illegal at archeological sites, so we make no attempt to find out.

Here's another look at the larger of the mortar rock outcroppings. There are some very deep mortars and many, many shallow depressions. There's also a curious double mortar in the left center of the picture.

Here’s another look at the larger of the mortar rock outcroppings. There are some very deep mortars and many, many shallow depressions. There’s also a curious double mortar in the left center of the picture. The many shallow depressions make me think – especially given that the ethnographic record ties it to birth ceremonies – that there might have been ceremonies at the site that called for a new mortar hole to be started.

We took our time at this site, scaling the rock pile to look for more pictographs. This lead to finding some interestingly placed mortars. See that sloped rock? There's quite a drop on the other side of it, and quite a gap between it and the boulder in the foreground, too. Not an easy place to get to. And yet, there are bedrock mortars on it!

We took our time at this site, scaling the rock pile to look for more pictographs. This lead to finding some interestingly placed mortars. See that sloped rock? There’s quite a drop on the other side of it, and quite a gap between it and the boulder in the foreground, too. Not an easy place to get to. And yet, there are bedrock mortars on it!

Here's a closeup of those mortars. I wondered whether the rock had settled after the mortars were made - may originally had originally been flat, but erosion or an earthquake moved it? But no - as you can see in this close up shor, the mortars still point straight down. They were delibaratly made on this angled surface.

Here’s a closeup of those mortars. I wondered whether the rock had settled after the mortars were made – maybe it had originally been flat but erosion or an earthquake caused it to tilt? But no – as you can see in this close up shot, the mortars still point straight down. They were deliberately made on this angled surface.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There’s not really much, if any, midden at the site and the overhangs in the outcropping are all soot-free, so the site seems ceremonial. Perhaps the mortars were mostly used to prepare materials for ceremonies – or perhaps stays at this site were brief or only during the summer when fire wasn’t as necessary.

The "bear" feature of the site is visible from this angle, too. Also note how the panel cuts off cleanly on the left. I don't know that this was by design but it might have been. DStretch shows no trace of pigment beyond that line, and in any case it would have been futile to put it there. That part of the rock is obviously exposed to the elements and rain washes down it regularly, so any pigment would quickly be washed away. Also note the long line descending in the upper left. There is another, very faded line next to it.

The “bear” feature of the site is visible from this angle, too. Also note how the panel cuts off cleanly on the left – I think right on the border of where rainwater would run down the rock face. I don’t know if the panel was placed this way by design. It may well have been because DStretch shows no trace of pigment beyond that line, and it can often bring back traces of pigment that can’t be seen with the naked eye. In any case it would have been futile to try to paint pictographs past that boundary – rain would quickly wash them away.

Here is a wide-angle overview of the main panel at the site. The central figures are bold and dynamic. Red is the predominant color, but there is also white pigment in use. A lot of the black in this picture is natural to the rock face, bit there appears to be some black used in the upper right part of the main panel. Also of great interest is what appears to be a yellow figure, possibly even with green pigment! in the center left of the panel. We'll return to that figure later.

Here is a second wide-angle overview of the main panel at the site. The central figures are bold and dynamic. Red is the predominant color but there is also white pigment in use. A lot of the black in this picture is natural discoloration on the rock face but there appears to be some black used in the upper right part of the main panel. Also of great interest is what appears to be a yellow figure, possibly even with green pigment, in the center left of the panel. We’ll return to that figure later – it may be hard to see in this overview shot.

This element in the lower right of the panel may be an anthropomorph, but it is party obscured. It almost looks like it was erased on purpose. This effect is particularly noticable with DStretch, so let's take a look.

This element in the lower right of the panel may be an anthropomorph, but it is party obscured. It almost looks like it was erased on purpose. This effect is particularly noticeable with DStretch, so let’s take a look.

See how the figure becomes very smudged at the top? It has nice clear, crisp lines until the area where the shoulders and head would have been is smudged. Maybe this was done deliberately as the figure was created, to symbolize something. The figure appears superimposed on a hastily drawn circle.

See how the figure becomes very smudged at the top? It has nice clear, crisp lines until the area where the shoulders and head would have been, where it is smudged. Maybe this was done deliberately as the figure was created, perhaps in order to tell a story or add symbolic meaning, or maybe the figure was made and then partially erased later. The figure appears superimposed on a hastily drawn circle.

The upper right hand side of the main pictograph panel has a few elements that are stylistically completely different than the main panel, yet somehow still fits in perfectly. Maybe they were painted by the same hand but are a tribute to something specific. These figures are very widely found in the western foothills of the Sierras, where they are referred to as "pelt" figures. I have visited a site featuring them twice before: Ayers Rock, and also the "What Lies Beneath" site.

The right side of the main pictograph panel has a few elements that are stylistically different than the main panel, yet still fits perfectly. The figure we just looked at is one of these. Here is another. Notice how it is an outline with open hands and feet, and a simple curved head? These figures are very widely found in the western foothills of the Sierras, where they are referred to as “pelt” figures. I have visited sites featuring them before, such as Ayers Rock and “What Lies Beneath“. It is interesting to find them here too. These figures are widely accepted to have ritual meaning. We don’t know the exact meaning, but they may represent shamans and thus be tied to vision quests.

This is the smaller of the two "pelt" figures, in the upper right part of the panel. It is less detailed than its companion. In this closeup we can also see the white pigment in use in the detailed figure next to it.

This is the smaller of the two “pelt” figures, in the upper right part of the panel. It is less detailed than its companion. In this closeup we can also see the white and black pigment in use in the detailed figure next to it. Let’s take a closer look at these two figures.

This closer view of the two dominant figures at the site clearly shows that white pigment was used to outline the red pigment.

This closer view of the two dominant figures at the site clearly shows that white pigment was used to outline the red pigment. It is difficult to tell which of the black areas in these pictures are natural discoloration of the rock and which are additional black pigment. It looks as if the natural color was carefully incorporated into the main figures for the most part, but portions of it were also added later. In particular, look at the lower right part of the photo, just above and to the left of the partially erased anthropomorph we saw earlier. The wavy black outline looks like it is not pigment but a pattern of algae growth. This kind of discoloration can be commonly seen on granite boulders in dry climates. It seems like it was carefully incorporated into the main design.

main_figures_crgb

DStretch detail of the previous picture. Note the very faded element in the lower center of the picture: a circle with a line pointing downwards. This general motif of a circle with a line coming out of it also appears in the area we focused on in the previous picture: this time with solid circles and mirroring each other – one pointing up, one pointing down. These elements are also quite faded.

This DStretch picture is from a slightly different angle than the others ,because I want to point out the prolifiration of smudged hashmarks in the top part of the panel. It is hard to even tell what is going on in that busy area of superimposed hashmarks. Also note that there might be a very faint, very basic zoomorph or anthropomorph at the very top left of the panel, above the "lip" of the rock.

This DStretch picture is from a slightly different angle than the others and uses an algorithm heavily geared towards popping out red pigment, because I want to point out the proliferation of smudged hashmarks in the top part of the panel, just left of center. It is hard to even tell what is going on with all those superimposed hashmarks! Also note that there might be a very faint, very basic zoomorph or anthropomorph at the very top left of the panel, above the “lip” of the rock on the cheek of the bear feature. There is also a couple of very tall red lines coming down the rock face above the panel, one much more faded than the other. These two lines are reminiscent of the lines at the Golden Hills Pictograph site, or the “Shooting Star” site, northeast of here in Tübatulabal territory.

Let's get back to that yellow pictograph I pointed out earlier. Do you see it in this picture? Look at the circular object with the cross shape in it, then follow the tally line coming off of its point to the right, and soon you'll notice this line go right through the "neck" of this strange fellow. It has a round, circular body, a long next, and two digitate feet and arms. Quite the surprise to find hidden in this panel!

Now, let’s get back to that yellow pictograph I pointed out earlier! Do you see it in this picture? Look at the circular object with the cross shape in it in the far upper left of the pictograph panel and then follow the horizontal tally line coming off of its point to the right, and soon you’ll notice this line go right through the “neck” of a strange yellow pictograph. It has a round, circular body, a long neck, and two digitate feet and arms. Quite the surprise to find hidden in this panel! If you’re having trouble finding him, I did at first, too! Let’s use some DStretch. By the way, the creator of DStretch also noticed this element. Take a look at his pictures of it.

Here's some DStretch aimed at teasing him out of the panel. This particular algorithm turns yellow to brown, which is why the figure appears like negative space in the panel in this shot. You can see the digitate feet and the arms, as well as the cross-shaped "head" clearly. Also note something else that is odd - there may be a "ladder" style element in this same pigment, overlaying the rightmost "ray" or "tendril" descenting from the leftmost of the two "main" figures with their circular heads.

There he is! This particular algorithm turns yellow to brown, which is why the figure looks like negative space in the panel. You can see the digitate feet and the arms, as well as the cross-shaped “head” clearly. Also note something else that is odd – there may be a “ladder” style element painted in this same yellow pigment in the picture. To find it, look at the leftmost of the two “main” figures with the circular heads, the one that has several lines trailing out from under it. It looks like there is a ladder element overlaying the rightmost “ray” or “tendril” descending from the figure – one vertical line with horizontal cross-hatches.

This DStretch photo shows the element in a hue closer to its native yellow. It is also good for highlighting the red on this panel. Notice something else that's interesting: a figure vaguely reminiscent of the famous thunderbird of the Northwest, visible in the lower half of the panel. To find it, follow the line of hash marks on the left. Where they start to taper out, look to the right and you'll see a figure with curved "wings" of hashmarks and a bifurcated tail.

This DStretch photo shows the element in a hue closer to its natural yellow. It is also good for highlighting the red on this panel. Notice something else that’s interesting: a figure vaguely reminiscent of the famous thunderbird of the Northwest visible in the lower half of the panel. To find it, follow the line of hash marks on the left edge of the picture. Where they start to taper out, look to the right and you’ll see a figure with curved “wings” of hashmarks and a bifurcated tail, just to the left of the exfoliated patch in the picture.

This stronger DStretch shows the red pigment in the picture clearly. It is worth taking some time just to follow all the lines and appreciate how strong and uniform they are. This is a very well-made panel.

This stronger DStretch shows the red pigment in the picture clearly. It is worth taking some time just to follow all the lines and appreciate how strong and uniform they are. This is a very well-made panel. It is also easier to see the thunderbird-like element in this picture. This picture also speaks to the dynamic nature of this panel: it feels as if the elements are exploding upwards and outwards from the lower part of the rock, flowing across the rock face towards the sky.

This element were visible in several other pictures but I want to pay special attention to it now because it is an amazingly detailed, painstaking pictograph. Note how it is comprised of many red segments, painstakingly painted so the negative space between them becomes part of the design.

This element, which is found in the lower left of the panel, was visible in several other pictures but I want to pay special attention to it now because it is an amazingly detailed pictograph. Note how it is comprised of many red segments, painstakingly painted so the negative space between them becomes part of the design.

Here's a DStretch version of this element, showing its intricate design.

Here’s a DStretch version of this element, showing its intricate design.

This site also boasts this small but interesting panel. The tally marks are easily visible in the center of the picture, as is the dot of pigment, but there is also a nice little sunburst motif on the rim of the overhang. I'll pull up some DStretch next to show that in more detail.

The site also boasts this small but interesting panel. The tally marks are easily visible in the center of the picture, as is the dot of pigment, but there is also a nice little sunburst motif on the rim of the overhang. I’ll pull up some DStretch next to show that in more detail.

There we go! Not the greatest angle to show it off, but you can clearly see the curved line and the rays coming off of it. This is located on the generally easterly side of the rock formation.

There we go! Not the greatest angle to show it off, but you can clearly see the curved line and the rays coming off of it. This is located on the generally easterly side of the rock formation.

We spent quite a bit of time at this site. It is a beautiful location, the various dirt bike tracks cutting up the land everywhere notwithstanding, and it was wonderful to just be outside and feel the landscape breathe.

That said: as we were examining the rock outcropping at our leisure, each of us tucked under a boulder and asking ourselves that famous pictograph hunter’s question: “Is this natural or is it pigment?” we were startled by an almighty boom that sounded like it went off one canyon over but was loud enough to echo down the sides of our canyon!

What the heck was that!! we both shouted, and immediately decided that sitting under huge boulders wedged between other huge boulders with that kind of thing was going on was a great way to end up flattened under a rock, so we quickly wrapped up our investigations and exited the rock pile.

Nothing suspicious was going on outside. Strange! We finally decided that there was probably still some mining operations or something going on somewhere in these hills, and someone decided to let loose with some dynamite.

There is another smaller site a short distance away from this one that I somehow didn’t realize is a separate site, so I didn’t go visit it and I don’t have any pictures of it. I just found some additional smaller pictographs at the main site and thought that was the second site! If you visit, make sure to investigate the boulder piles easterly of the main site so you can see this site as well.

*Zulu word for an arroyo, gully, or other feature that is steeply eroded and mostly dry, but created by flash floods.

4 thoughts on “Burham Canyon Pictographs

  1. Mark Campbell

    There are at least 3 bears in the Burham Canyon site. According to Andy Greene and Maurice Zigmond Rock Baby (grizzly bear spirit) is both the creator and guardian of the site.

    Reply
    1. peregriffwrites@gmail.com Post author

      Hi there, Mark. Much obliged to you for taking the time to share – that is genuinely interesting. So according to Andy Greene, was Rock Baby seen as a grizzly bear spirit in general, or specifically for this site? I don’t recall reading anything specific about that when researching the site. I mean to go back to Burham Canyon sometime, because I haven’t visited everything there is to see yet. I will look at the site more closely for additional bear images then. I don’t think I saw any others while I was there, but then again, I did not specifically look.

      Reply
  2. B2H

    Well my wife and I happy to report no beer cans (7/14/18) and the road was in pretty good shape but you do need a 4×4 to get there. Btw, does anyone know anything about the house foundation that is up the canyon, maybe a half a mile.

    Reply
    1. peregriffwrites@gmail.com Post author

      That’s great news – I’m glad someone cleaned the site up a bit.

      I’m also glad to hear that the road is drivable again for 4×4, because I’ve been meaning to head up there again, and I didn’t really want to hike all the way up again. When I went the road was undermined and badly washed out in places.

      Regarding the foundation, there’s adits in the general vicinity, but not all that close to it. I think it is a foundation from a Homesteading Act-era dwelling, but I’m not sure. It would be interesting to know more!

      Reply

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